What Causes the ‘Waves’ in the Ocean and How Are They Measured?

Waves are like ripples made by the wind. When the wind blows, it makes the water move, and that’s how waves are born. Sometimes you can see them far away, and they look small at first, but when they get close to shore, they grow bigger! People use a special tool called a wave meter to measure how high or fast waves are moving.

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Waves are like ripples made by wind, and they grow bigger as they come closer to shore.
A wave meter can tell you how high or fast the waves are moving just by looking at them.
Sometimes a calm ocean can turn into a sea of big waves if the wind blows for a long time.

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Categories: Science · oceanography,waves,science for kids